Rolex Men’s Datejust 36 Steel and Gold
Ref. 16233
If there is an archetypal Rolex visual, it is the meeting of steel and gold known as Rolesor. The term, first patented by the brand all the way back in 1933, can be used to describe a watch with any of the three colors of the precious metal—but it is the yellow gold version specifically that is so symbolic. Combine that two-tone palette with the sweeping lines of the Datejust, and you have a model that screams the name of the manufacture louder than any other. It is a look which has been ever present in the lineup since the 1950s, seen sometimes as the height of fashion and at others as a retro throwback.
The watch itself is among the least altered model of any in Rolex’s portfolio—on the outside at any rate. The ref. 162XX series kicked off in 1988 (taking over from the ref. 160XX range), with the yellow Rolesor ref. 16233 picking up where the ref. 16013 left off. As is usual with the Datejust family, it was a new caliber which prompted it. However, even the updates to the movement on this occasion were minimal and it was far more about gently evolving the components already present than it was about introducing anything too revolutionary.
Rolex, as always, were striving to make their engines as cutting-edge as possible, ensuring they stayed right at the forefront of what was achievable in terms of accuracy, reliability and resilience. Apart from that though, there was very little to choose between the outgoing series and the incoming, bar a couple of tweaks here and there. The watch was still the perfect everyday companion piece and a bridge between Rolex’s all-out dress models and their legendary Professional Collection.
With its 36mm Oyster case, waterproof to 100m, it was more than tough enough for any situation, and its styling and exhaustive dial color options remained a byword for versatility. The Datejust matches with everything, whatever the circumstances.
Below we take a look at the ref. 16233, a continuation of that essential Rolex spirit.
The ref. 16233 was the direct replacement for the ref. 16013, which is sometimes known as the American Psycho Rolex. If you’ve seen the movie, and its antihero Patrick Bateman, you will have a good idea of the look of the watch. The ref. 16233 is an almost identical model, with stainless steel making up the case and the outer links of the bracelet, and yellow gold forming the bezel, winding crown and center links.
As with all modern day Rolex, the reference number tells us certain details about the piece, with 162 being the code for a 36mm Datejust with the new Cal. 3135 movement, and the 33 denoting the kind of bezel and the metal used for it. In this case it means the surround is the classic fluted style, and is forged in 18k gold. On the older ref. 16013, it could have been either 18k or 14k.
Fluted bezels are another of those features which are very characteristic of Rolex as a manufacturer. The numerous facets catch the light and add a hint of luxury and flamboyance to the piece. Whereas they are now purely decorative, they actually evolved from the original coin-style edging which served a useful purpose, in that they gave watchmakers a way to grip the bezel as they screwed it down onto the case.
By this time in the Datejust’s development, there were two other designs available; a highly polished smooth type, and what is known as engine-turned. This last looks fairly similar to the fluted, but are even more elaborate, consisting of ornate patterns engraved around the circumference. Last seen on the 34mm steel Date models in the mid-2000s, they are no longer an option anywhere in the Rolex lineup.
36mm steel case
18K yellow gold fluted bezel
Steel and 18K yellow jubilee bracelet
White dial with Roman markers
2003 year of purchase.
Appearance is around 9.5 out of 10
Watch comes with manuals, and Rolex double box.
SOLD